So I came across a reconditioned AC and Heater box from The Part Guy: thepartguy.com and got a good deal. I have enough parts, but they would have to be mailed off and then reconditioned, so I ended up getting the pair since they were available and ready to go – along with a deal for buying both at the same time!
The problem is – I don’t know where I have room to store these until I mount them… But since the firewall is painted, there is no reason why I can’t go ahead and mount them! I need to order the proper screws\bolts and the sealant used for these and then get them mounted to the firewall! Give me a few weeks and I should be able to post an update and pics!
After the snow storms last year, I decided to buy a 3-stage snow thrower. Then I decided to buy a riding mower and attachment, so this last summer, went to Home Depot and bought a Troy-Bilt Super Bronco 46″ and a 3-stage MTD snow thrower. Some resources said it would work with the Super Bronco XP, so I was a little worried, but can tell you it does in fact work with the newer Super Bronco 46″.
So I finally decided it was time to mount it and here are the details and tips (note, I assembled the 3-stage unit earlier – this just covers mounting it):
If you have 2 guys and the right tools, can be done in a day or two. I did it over a couple of weekends – next year will be faster since many of the brackets can stay on:
First, you will need to remove the handles. Then you will be able to mount the bumper: If you haven’t done so already, remove the belt-guide and keep the screw handy noting the holes it came out of (both sides): These braces are a BEAR to install. For the next step, you may want to remove (temporarily) the black bar with the clip in the pic. I used an open-end wrench on the opposite side and it fit within the frame. The good news is once these are on, they can stay: When it comes to mounting this, it does not just slip on. NOTE: I ended up blocking this in place and got a second pair of hands with good pry-bars to help me. Having a second pair of hands and good pry bars, it went on without too much difficulty. Blocking it also helped to get it in place. Removing the bars with the clip is a BIG help as well – remember how it goes back on though! The supplied guide bar and belt installed: Get the belt, spring, and cable installed. It is a tight fit and next year, I may try installing the spring and cable before attaching the unit in place: Roll the mower over the frame – I suggest blocking the frame to make it a little easier once it is under the mower (note: double-check the belt and belt-guide path): The back end goes first – I did this by myself with a bar under it to leverage it in place (note: the clips were on the frame and not the belt unit per referenced in the documentation. The front end mounts here – I was able to pick up both ends and get them in place by myself: Note: Gas cap is still accessible. Also when lifting the hood, have the snow thrower in lowest position – can still access the oil dipstick: Next I installed the weights (easy): and snow chains: Note: Steering is harder with this added weight and turning radius in much more difficult to turn around. There will be a learning curve and will try to get some videos this winter! Hopefully this will help someone as there wasn’t much I was able to find on my own.
Last remaining NOS trim search is now complete. With the exception of the front and back window trim, complete set of NOS trim now upper door and lower door:
Will be doing some Spring cleaning of the garage and working on the blast cabinet is next on my to-do list.
Received another diecast car. This one is Yellow which looks the most (out of all my diecast cars) like mine will when complete – My display cabinet is now full:
So if you recall last year I messed up and painted the bottom half of the firewall satin black when I should have used gloss black. The weather was warm enough yesterday I sprayed 3 coats of gloss black after scuffing\cleaning…
It is better, but still not as good as I would like. Not entirely happy and may spray a few more coats this summer of strip and re-do. Not sure that it will even be visible with the 427 BigBlock and A/C in the engine compartment.
Need to tackle the block sanding and undercoat the bottom this summer – if I can fit this in or time this fall, I will re-visit it then as I decide what I will do with it.
I have two NOS trim pieces coming in the mail. I’ll post pics when they arrive – they will complete my NOS trim search and I will have a complete set of NOS trim to put on the Camaro.
Another NOS component for when I have the A/C restored:
So after learning how to decode the age of the Raptor bedliner, I realized what I had was expired, so I ordered another kit to be safe. I already had a couple of bottles to use on my test section. The kit and guns arrived today – the guns were cheap enough that I will use them and move on to the next without cleaning between bottles. The price was right and cheaper than the recommended cleaner. Tomorrow my paint should arrive to touch-up the firewall from last year and to use on the hidden windshield wiper components. I am sure I will need to order more, but at least I can get started as soon as the conditions are right to paint again…
So here is what I learned for decoding the raptor bedliner age: First, the hardener deteriorates faster than the base. As a sense check for any hardener already opened see if the contents of the hardener are really liquid (reducer like consistency) if it “sounds” thicker- i.e. syrupy then it has gone passed its useful life.
Typically the batch numbers for the Raptor base is on a paper ticket on the cardboard box. The hardener is batch labelled with a paper ticket on the base. The batch labels use the same 5 digit format where the first digit represents the year so for 2018 this will be 8, 2019 will be 9 and so forth. The next two digits represent the week number when they were produced. The final two digits represent the run sequence through the factory.